The dark side of the mountain

Nepali working on the rice fields / Tourists in a restaurant (Pokhara)

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When I told my French friends I was going to India, many of them were sceptical about this destination. But when I said I would also go to Nepal, they were unanimous “you are so lucky!! Nepal is my dream…”.

I stayed 2 months in India and only 10 days in Nepal, so I cannot have an objective opinion about which country is the best to visit and it also depends on the expectations of everyone. As far as I’m concerned, I like to discover a country through its culture and its people. Landscapes and leisure activities are secondary for me, even though I strongly enjoy being surrounded by the nature. If my French fellows are so excited when they hear the word Nepal, I am pretty sure this is because they see immediately the Himalaya. In France we have a “mountain” culture and a winter sport mindset due to a strong tourist industry mainly located in the Alps… French or not, most of the tourists go to Nepal for the pleasure of being in the mountain. And this pleasure has a name: trekking.

I am not writing this article to describe my trek but to highlight, unfortunately, 3 negative aspects in this form of tourism: cultural, human and environmental. Most of the mountain passionates are not aware that achieving their Himalaya dream will probably encourage bad practices as regards the environment and human beings. It sounds a bit contradictory, as loving the mountains is synonym of loving the nature, and consequently to respect it… My intention is to share some observations I had during my trek in the Annapurnas. I hope it will be useful for those who want to see the north face without loosing the north…

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The cultural side

If you are planning to trek in the Annapurnas, your starting point will certainly be Pokhara. This city is located at the foot of the Annapurna range and welcomes all the tourists in an area called Lake view. Trekkers stay there to prepare their trip, buy equipments and rest or party. Honestly, this city made me feel like being in a big tourist spot.  One day I decided to take a walk around the lake and what I found was kind of inhuman if you consider the fortune generated by the trek business.. and the profile of the tourists!! We are not talking of those who go to Dominican Republic to stay in an all inclusive resort drinking mojitos all day while misery is sourrounding their holiday bubble. I am referring to trekkers, which are supposed to be ethical and open-minded tourists. I am certainly very naive. For some people, the call of the mountain adrenaline seems to be stronger than some basic human values like respect, compassion and interest for other cultures. The image above is the best example I can give you.

I was not surprised to observe the same attitude in the mountains. Many trekkers were walking like crazy for hours to achieve their challenge, passing by incredible nepali villages where they only stopped half an hour to eat and take a small rest. When I was watching these people, I was wondering what is the point to go so far and spend so much money when you can get the same physical experience  in your country. Getting higher, getting always more, it seems to be the motor of the human spirit… Perhaps you won’t share this tough judgment. But the next one has to make you react, at least a bit…

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The human side

During all my 5 day walk, I was very shocked by the cruelty of some trekkers who gave to their porters big suitcases to carry. The burden sometimes reaches more than 50kg and porters generally cannot afford to buy proper equipment. I saw many of them walking with flip flops in dangerous paths. They are paid less than 5 dollars a day for this slave work and they have no choice, they have to feed their family. It’s true that they would earn much less doing other jobs, but what I am pointing out here is the exploitation they are victim of  in the name of leisure. How the passion of some people can become the hell of others?

Of course there are governmental rules to protect the porter’s rights but only few people apply them. It’s up to the good consciousness of the trekker or the agency which hires the porter. Therefore I would recommend anyone who plan to trek to get informed about the good practices with porters. And if you let an agency organize your trip, make sure that it gives good working conditions and a decent salary to porters. You will find plenty of information and all the guidelines in the website of The International Porter Group, an association run by volunteers to protect the porters’ rights.

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The environmental side

Fortunately I don’t have to say that the mountain was a garbage… It would be a sin to devastate such a gift of the nature! On this aspect, it seems trekkers have a minimum of consciousness. But the strong tourist activity requires an efficient management to ged ride of the waste in areas not accessible by roads. Before starting a trek in the Annapurnas, you have to obtain a pass in the tourist office otherwise you are not allowed to access the area. The payment of this pass is supposed to finance the Annapurna Conservation Area Project, which includes waste treatment. But when you speak with nepali working in the business (guides, owner of lodges, porters..) you will soon learn that most of the cleaning actions are actually done by the inhabitants themselves because the government does not seem very concerned by this matter… So we have to be cooperative to help the mountain inhabitants who are doing what they are not supposed to do! The website of Mountain Riders gives sustainable solutions to those who want to enjoy and respect the mountain environment.

I’ve been quite critical here because I had to express myself to feel in peace. I cannot talk about a wonderful trip in Nepal if there are elements that are disturbing my mind. If putting them on the paper can make me feel being useful towards other people, then I finally feel like sharing the power of the Himalaya experience through these pictures. Enjoy : )

Thanks to the Pink Floyd to give me inspiration with their dark side of the moon, hence the title…